Over the coming months, you’ll hear a lot of people harping on about hair health. It’s true, summer can certainly wreak havoc on your hair. Harsh UV rays, salt, chlorine, humidity, dryness, excessive sweating (leading to excessive washing), and over-styling from all those social events – it’s a recipe for some pretty ragged looking locks by the time you go back to work. But hair health is actually something you should be thinking about year-round. After all, it’s not just external stressors like those listed above that lead to hair damage, but rather your internal makeup – namely, how your scalp behaves. The good news is, with some quick diagnostics and a tailored hair care and repair regime, you can be on the path to hair wellness today.
Dry vs oily scalp: what’s your damage?
When people categorise themselves as having hair that’s ‘oily’ or ‘dry’, what they’re actually describing is their scalp. As the experts at beautyheaven explain, the scalp is effectively an extension of your face, so whatever your skin’s default state is will likely be your scalp’s too.
If your scalp is on the oilier side, you’re probably guilty of overwashing it. This kicks your sebum production into overdrive and creates a self-perpetuating cycle whereby your roots stay as greasy as ever, and those natural oils never make it all the way down the hair shaft, meaning brittle strands and split ends.
Brittle, ragged lengths are also the result of a dry scalp, but in this case, it’s not oil blocking the hair follicle and preventing moisture and nutrients from penetrating the hair shaft, it’s dead skin cells. In addition to feeling tight, itchy and inflamed, a flaky scalp can lead to dandruff — a dermatological condition that occurs when fungi on the scalp feeds off dead skin cells or excess oil.
So what’s the fix?
Products that address your particular scalp problems – and there are plenty. For oily scalps, choose shampoos and conditioners that pair detoxifying ingredients like clay or charcoal with strengthening ingredients like Argan oil or Keratin – a combination that will work to mattify grease while ensuring dry lengths get the TLC they need. Speaking to Vogue, Manhattan-based dermatologist Dr Francesca Fusco also sung the praises of exfoliating hair scrubs which, when used as a pre-shampoo treatment, help to rebalance the scalp and set you up for happy, healthy hair days.
Try: Theorie Charcoal Bamboo Detoxifying Shampoo, R+Co Crown Scalp Scrub
Image: R+Co Crown Scalp Scrub
If your problem is a dry, flaky scalp, you need a gently clarifying shampoo that will slough away dead skin cells without causing further inflammation or moisture loss. Follow up with an ultra-hydrating conditioner and/or treatment mask to quench those thirsty lengths. If you’re suffering from dandruff, you’ll need to treat it with a dandruff-specific shampoo. Consider a scalp soothing mask to make you more comfortable while it’s working its magic.
Try: Fanola Purity Shampoo, Malibu C Scalp Wellness Kit
What else impacts hair health?
Build-up from styling products is a biggie. Whether you’re a dry shampoo addict or heavily reliant on pastes and pomades to control that pixie cut, product residue blocks the hair follicle in much the same way that dandruff or excess oil does, and with the same end result. Again, the fix is to regularly flush out your follicles with a good clarifying shampoo.
Try: Malibu C Un-Do-Goo Shampoo, R+Co Oblivion Clarifying Shampoo
Image: Malibu C Un-Do-Goo Shampoo Sachet
While the condition of your scalp plays a big part in your overall hair health, it’s not the only contributing factor. One of the most common causes of damaged hair is UV exposure and excessive heat from styling tools. For this reason, always have a thermal protectant spray in your hair arsenal. Cover all your bases and choose one that specifically provides UV protection, in addition to fortifying your hair against heat styling.
Try: Tigi Copyright Custom Create Heat Protection Spray, Not Your Mother's Beat The Heat Thermal Styling Spray
How about over-processed hair?
Hair that has been lightened is extremely prone to damage because the bleaching process raises the hair cuticle, allowing for rapid and continuous moisture loss. Angela Kingsley, president at hair and scalp specialists Philip Kingsley, adds that light hair is also more porous, which is why blondes go brassy when exposed to chemicals like chlorine. A quality purple shampoo will counteract this effect, but to address hydration issues, moisture-infusing conditioners and hair treatments are also a must. Dry hair is the first to fade so these are recommended to keep all colour-jobs colour fast – light or dark.
Try: Affinage Professional Miracle Repair Mask, Keratin Colour Defend My Colour Hair Mask
Image: Affinage Cleanse & Care Miracle Hydration Treatment Leave-In Balm + Repair Mask
What about general ‘wellness’?
The clean beauty movement has revolutionised the industry in recent years and it’s easy to feel overwhelmed, cynical, or straight-up fatigued trying to figure out what it all means. The upshot though, is that it’s not going to do your hair any harm to avoid products that exclude sulphates and parabens (which can cause irritation and have been linked to some health issues) and that instead harness natural ingredients which deliver the same, if not better results. While you’re at it, keep the health of the planet in mind and consider championing brands that prioritise organic, vegan and cruelty-free ingredients and packaging.
Try: 12Reasons Keratin Hair Treatment Mask, R+CO Television Perfect Hair Masque, Aluram Leave-in Conditioner
Image: Aluram Leave-In Conditioner
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